RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 7/31/2006 11:10:19 PM
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trader
Posts: 1200
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Houston, TX
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97 Toyota Camry 4 cyl, 219,000 miles and I want to keep it forever. What do you old pros recommend. I use synthetic motor oil and have had the CV boots replaced one time. Never had a tune up, nothing leaks.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/1/2006 1:52:55 AM
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CATdawg
Posts: 149
Joined: 2/26/2006
Home base: Keller TX
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In 2004 I bought a new Tundra 5-speed manual V6 to replace an F150 inline-6, 3-on-the-column-manual that I had purchased new in 1984. The Ford had well over 300K miles on it. Everything that was plastic or rubber was long gone (including the dash, inside door trim, etc.); I was on my 3rd clutch and 4th transmission (three of them were $100 rebuilds that took me an hour to install) . I had replaced my engine oil religiously at every 3K interval, and the engine was fine- it still passed emissions testing and propelled the vehicle at 15 mpg at 300K mileage (I got 22mpg on the Interstates for the first 5 years, but had no A/C or power steering...heck, it didn't even come with an AM radio LOL). By the time I traded it in ($200 LOL), it had a custom wooden-and-steel flatbed and custom rack (both built in my shop) that could carry, or screw and/or tie down, anything under 20' long with a minimum of fuss. It also had a row of bevelled clear plexiglass shark's teeth down the center of the hood and 8' blue neons under the bed that made children everywhere gasp with delight, but I digress...
That flippin' truck survived my ineptitude, 2 years in Spain without a catalytic converter or oxygen sensor (no unleaded fuel was available), loads that limited me to second gear in the Tennessee hills, and the strangest of my ideas of what constituted an "upgrade". It also survived a movie production company while I was in Spain ('88-'90). I rented out the old beast to shoot "Drug Wars-the Kiki Camarena Story" (the Spanish guys didn't know to press in the clutch before attempting to start the ignition, and smoked the clutch while trying to get it onto a car carrier... LOL).
Anyway, after reading this thread, I'm seriously considering going to synthetic oil for the Toyota. I went into last year's storms with 15K mileage and came out, 6 months later, with 35K. Whole lotta oil changes at 3K increments....
_____________________________
Lee Norwood
"Many a time have skillful workmen tried to contrive a wheel that shall turn of itself..." -Archimedes
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/1/2006 1:23:18 PM
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trader
Posts: 1200
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Houston, TX
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I want to insert wife before vehicle. She has less than 15,000 on a 2006 GS300 Lexus. Just called from the dealership and said she needs four new tires as the 17 inch wheels wear out tires in a short time. Only $250. each. They did not see me coming , never visited.
How bad was she had?
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/1/2006 2:02:27 PM
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CATdawg
Posts: 149
Joined: 2/26/2006
Home base: Keller TX
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>>I want to insert wife before vehicle.<<
Um, Ray...that statement is just plumb scary.
And yes, she was had...the original tires were probably due for their first rotation, not replacement, at 15K.
_____________________________
Lee Norwood
"Many a time have skillful workmen tried to contrive a wheel that shall turn of itself..." -Archimedes
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/1/2006 4:04:22 PM
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danandlea
Posts: 31
Joined: 3/15/2006
Home base: Denison, TX
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I drive an '04 Tahoe and it carries my entire office from site to site easily. Gas mileage is about 20mpg on highway and it handles like a sedan. Roomy, comfortable, dependable and easy to fix.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/1/2006 4:58:21 PM
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trader
Posts: 1200
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Houston, TX
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Well its a fact the Dunlap 255x50R 17 only last for 12,000 to 15,000 miles, checked with the dealer, an used car wholesale buyer and Discount Tire Co. The good new are they are speed rated for 94 mph, and have a sensor when you are getting low on pressure all this for $250.00 each. Hell of a deal.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/2/2006 5:35:43 PM
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racko
Posts: 228
Joined: 2/17/2006
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Heard the reason those 17 inchers wear different is because they go further each time they goes round & round, compared to say a 14 or 15 incher. So when your odometer says you put on 15K miles on the car, them 17 inchers have traveled quite a few extra K. Tried to figure just how much extra with a big chalk protractor but ran out of driveway and all the neighbor kids' chalk. Kinda makes the price easier to live with though, don't it.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/2/2006 5:45:42 PM
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trader
Posts: 1200
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Houston, TX
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I suggested it was all a waste of $ as the low pressure sensors have never gone off and she has never driven 94 mph. Got a go to h--- look.
Speaking of sidewalk chalk I like the square multi color from Wahl Mart in the orange box with the green bail. Kinda personalizes your photos
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/2/2006 11:55:31 PM
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CATdawg
Posts: 149
Joined: 2/26/2006
Home base: Keller TX
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quote:
ORIGINAL: racko
Heard the reason those 17 inchers wear different is because they go further each time they goes round & round, compared to say a 14 or 15 incher. So when your odometer says you put on 15K miles on the car, them 17 inchers have traveled quite a few extra K. Tried to figure just how much extra with a big chalk protractor but ran out of driveway and all the neighbor kids' chalk. Kinda makes the price easier to live with though, don't it.
I was thinking 15" in my previous post #102 (thank God it wasn't in a claim file LOL). Those 17" tires must have a very soft composition.
The formula for circumference is: pi (3.14159...) x the diameter. The circumference of a 17" tire is : 3.14159 x 17 = 53.4". The circumference of a 15" tire would be: 3.14159 x 15 = 47.12".
So, the ratio of circumferences between a 15" and a 17" tire would be either 53.4 / 47.12 (1.133), or, 47.12 / 53.4 (0.882).
Thus, after 15,000 miles on the odometer, 17" tires would have 16,999 miles on them compared to 15,000 for the 15" tires. In other words, 17" tires travel 113.3% as far as 15" tires for the same odometer reading.
Still a rip-off, in my opinion.
...and I prefer the 4-pack of "play-chalk" from Wal-Mart, for the choice of colors. LOL. But keep your chalk in a zip-lock bag if you don't want abrasive dust all over everything else in your tool pouch...
< Message edited by CATdawg -- 8/3/2006 12:08:23 AM >
_____________________________
Lee Norwood
"Many a time have skillful workmen tried to contrive a wheel that shall turn of itself..." -Archimedes
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/3/2006 12:05:43 AM
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bent1973
Posts: 73
Joined: 9/20/2005
Home base: DFW, TX
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Guess I ought to buy an extra set of tires to have on hand to get me through the season. Don't wanna wind up at Cletus' brothers tire shop lookin for replacements.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/3/2006 4:18:57 AM
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racko
Posts: 228
Joined: 2/17/2006
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Durn it, Cletus... I told you----it's always about pie!!
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/3/2006 10:53:57 AM
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Limonator
Posts: 6
Joined: 8/31/2005
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I drive a (paid for) F350 dually, 4 dr, with the 7.3 power stroke... average 12-15 mpg. $900.00 + - in total repairs (less tires, brakes, oil ect) in 6 years. Pulls my 31 ft house/office, ladder racks, generators, sat dishes ect ect. I just have to set my appointments carfully not to drive all over creation everyday.
One note on all the Amsoil stuff.... I also thought about it, till this corp guy from Amsoil treated me like I was stupid for running a K&N filter and running Rotella oil, His quote was "why are you destroying your truck with that ****".
Well, been building race car motors for years, and far from stupid on what to use and not use on my motors, either gas or diesel. Anyway, it may be the best stuff since sliced bread but will not touch it, ever.
Some info on oils - I have used Rotella on my vehicles and never had a problem. I use it only because it is one of the few oils left that adds zinc and manganese. This reduce engine wear... Check what is in, or not in your oils... Here is some info from Comp cams;
Recent changes in oil and engine technology are likely the cause of premature camshaft failure; here’s what you can do to protect your engine! Premature flat tappet camshaft failure has been an issue of late and not just with one brand or type of camshaft. In almost every case, the hardness or the taper of the cam lobe is suspected, yet most of the time that is not the problem. This growing trend is due to factors that are unrelated to camshaft manufacture or quality. Changes in today`s oil products and “advanced” internal engine design have contributed to a harsher environment for the camshaft and a potential for failure during break-in. But there are several things you can do to turn the tide on this discouraging trend.
The lubricity of the oil and specifically the reduction of important additives such as zinc and manganese, which help break-in and overall camshaft life, have been drastically reduced. In terms of oil selection, we recommend Shell Rotella T oil for the break-in procedure. Most often used in diesel engine applications, this higher lubricity oil works in gasoline engines as well.
PS - Change your oil - that alone will save you tons of $$$$ down the road. 10K, 15K and 25K between oil changes... LOL... don't buy their used vehicle...
Sorry so long....
_____________________________
The Limonator
Racecar backwards is raceaR
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/5/2006 11:07:42 PM
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TEXASBOY
Posts: 1
Joined: 8/5/2006
Status: offline
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Hi guys. I'm new here trying to learn about the business. I was browsing the forums when I came across this forum. A friend of mine runs a mobile oil change business. He and I both run Schaeffer's motor oil in all of our vehicles, including our lawn mowers & other engines of various equipment. I can tell you that it is the best oil I have ever seen. He and I both go 10K between changes because the oil is really that good! I actually tested it on a machine that tests friction, and no other oil came close. Limonator, this would be a good replacement for Amsoil. My friend drives a newer model Dodge 3/4 quad cab with the Cummins HO diesel & pulls a 6000 lb trailer everyday. I am currently an insurance inspector (basically I report minor damage & take the property pics) and I drive an '05 Honda Accord with the 2.4L VTEC 4-cylinder that I bought brand new last year in September, and I already have 51K miles on it. Not a lick of problems for either one of us. Here is the Schaeffer website www.schaefferoil.com . Hope this helps all of you!
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/6/2006 4:00:37 AM
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PORTASATGUY
Posts: 316
Joined: 9/15/2005
Home base: Homeless
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Weel in My Ol 74 Buick I RuN RecYclEd Oyl All I Do Is ScreeN It, ThroUgh A Used CoFFe FilTer and Run It (It usuallY has WateR In It But It BurNs Off AftEr a FeW Hundered MiLeZ) .... Lil SmoKy But Illt GiDDer DonE Fer Sure, and DOnT KnoW Why YawL Run All Thos ExPEncIve Oyls N Tyres ................ My Mechanic, Ol Ray Down To Tha SHOp Has A BraND o TyRes CaLLed "MAYPOPS" I Git A ReaLLy GooD Deal And CaRRy 3 Wit Me WherEVer I Go, He Even MoUnts Em Fer Me. AnD I Get The UseD OyL Fer FrEE, ThTs Why I CaRRy The 55 GaLLon DrUm Wit Me, And a SyPhon Hose..... I SyPhoNEd a Load O DeISel MadE Tha Ol BeaTer SpIt And SpUttEr, and Ever Stop LiGhT I HAd TO StaNd On Tha CelleraTor In NueTral, UnTIl Tha LiGht Tuined GrEEn and SLAM It Into DrIve, BuT I LikE the ShorT ScreeCh, And I Got My Ol MayPopS With me So, Its OK.
I ReallY Like It When Im RunnIn TO Nother InSuureD and The Ol Buick LetS Out a ReaL Loud "BANG" Ever One Gets Sceerd. I LikE Tha SpreSssions On Ther FacEs WheN ThaT HaPPenS Too! Fer Some ReasOn I AlwaYS Git a ThuMbs Up From EverOne But we Use Our ThUmbs WherE Im From, Ever One Else UseS Tha MiDDle FInGeR (Caint FiGuRe ThaT OnE Out, But I Guess PeopLE are DiffrEnt thaN Down HoME)
WhY PaY Thjos SpeNciVe PriCes At tha PuMp When Ya Can CyPher The Gas Fer NuThin ( I swalerd A Lots Of it, and Its a Taste you Just Gotta AqUire, Just Like A Cold un!)
WEEL Yawl Be GooD and If Ya Want Ol RayS NuMber The RestraunT WIll Go Git HiM For Ya TO Talk Too If Ya WanT Some MaYPOPS, or ANyThin....Everone Needs A GooD MeChanIC, and a Syphone HoSe, Email Me and I Cen Show Ya How To Make Your Own, Ol Ray hes a goodne, No schollin EithEr He LeaRNEd By Speriance, LikE I did, Ima Juster By Trade! ! C YAwl!
YouR FrIeNd CLETUS
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_____________________________
R. Estes
Life is short LIVE IT!
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/6/2006 7:28:49 AM
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jlombardo
Posts: 335
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: clearwater, fl
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ROY,
PLEASE...........GET SOME REST......
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/6/2006 10:12:55 AM
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Limonator
Posts: 6
Joined: 8/31/2005
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Thanks for the Link Texasboy... I am a fellow Texan, SA area. Interesting reading on that oil. With our racing motors and tow vehicle motors we are always looking for improvement. The Amsoil guys talked as they wanted to sponsor our racecar, but they just wanted us to be another "Mary Kay" salesman for them.
Have a good "blistering hot day" in Texas !!! LOL
_____________________________
The Limonator
Racecar backwards is raceaR
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/6/2006 2:56:01 PM
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Jack Nichols
Posts: 53
Joined: 4/27/2006
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Thoughts on oil, K&N filters, from over 50 years of playing with engines:
I put a blob of grease in the air filter housing, downstream from the filter. After using the K&N for 5K miles, found grit in the grease. After a similar test with stock paper (washable) filter, found no grit. I now use the stock filter exclusively. Run your own test to see if you have similar results.
Oil - I have used dino and synthetic oils a lot. In the (complicated and massive goings on) of my four wheel drive, I picked up 1.5 MPG by using synthetic oils.
In the engine I use Penzoil dyno oil, and change it frequently, as it will break down, but more importantly it gathers blow by, acids, dirt, etc that I would rather not have circulating in my engine. The super duper filters that are used with synthetic oil try to get around that. I have no idea how successfully.
200K on my old Toyota - still runs great.
This is worth about what you paid for it.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 8/15/2006 5:29:44 PM
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johnsonjamesp
Posts: 3
Joined: 11/28/2005
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I had a 97 ford with the 4.6 in it. My buddy and I did the tuneup ourselves. The plug wires themselves are over $100.00. The pain in your butt getting those last two plugs out would make it worth the money to me to let someone else do it if I ever buy another one like that.
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RE: Best adjuster's Vehicle - 9/30/2006 1:19:18 AM
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ALadjuster
Posts: 1
Joined: 5/21/2006
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quote:
ORIGINAL: The Bennetts
I just wanted to post something on the SuperChip. All of the re programmers will void your warranty even if you reprogram it before taking it in for service. Since ours is right off the new car lot, we didn't want to go that way. What we did do is get a "Dr. Performance Predator" inline module. It did cost $500 and change, but we can unplug and remove it before taking it in for service and there's no footprint in the computer. The reprogrammers all leave footprints. We also had a high efficiency air filter added and it can be swapped out the same way before taking it in for service. They make the Predator modules for most any make of diesel trucks and were we shocked on the way home. Our gas mileage improved by 50% plus and we haven't even done the oil change yet to synthetic. My best reading was 23.3 yesterday. We expect that to improve with a synthetic oil and the roll and lock bed cover we added today. My nephew did all this except for the bed cover and he gets 25 plus.
This may be old news and I know this thread is old but before I started adjusting, if that is what you call doing auto hail claims for several months, I was a tech at a couple of different GM dealers. The first advice is that if you have some sort of "chip" (meaning modified program) you had better take it out before you take your vehicle in for service. The main reason for this is if you have a driveability problem there are probably several to dozens of bulletins for updated programs for everything from EGR valve problems to engine noises. When the tech reprograms your PCM, ECM or whatever that manufacturer calls it you will lose your program and you will have to buy another programmer.I have never seen one that left any sort of evidence that it was there and once when I needed to reflash a truck that had a software number that was not recognized I asked the customer and he brought his programmer to me and I took it out. As far as I know this only applies to GM vehicles but I imagine that they are similar. Also, I have had several discussions with our regional service manager and unless we can prove without a doubt that a software problem caused a failure you have to honor the warranty but this was said and a few weeks later he denied a transmission claim because of header and a cat back exhaust system.
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