Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service
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Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/19/2006 3:34:31 PM
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Gale
Posts: 736
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Murray, KY
Status: offline
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While reading in the Best adjuster’s Vehicle thread I was impressed by the quality of drivability and service tips and experiences that are buried in that huge thread. Jack Nichols post on his K&N air filter test is a great example of an adjuster that has separated marketing hype from the cold dirty facts yet has nothing to do with any one brand of vehicle. Hopeful this tread will more of less stay on subject but I am dreaming I am sure. : )
Having had the 4L60E transmission in my Blazer fail this week has me giving more thought and $$$ to this subject as well. The 4L60E transmission is the current version of the same basic transmission that most all GM built rear wheel drive vehicles have used since 1982 but the electron version of this transmission added some drivability issues as pointed out by the sticker on the driver door of some trucks. The 4 stands for four speed, L stands for longitudinal (T would mean transverse mounted), 60 stands for 6,000 pounds but is used in vehicles up to 8,600 pounds and E stands for electronically controlled shifting.
With Google you can find more information than you have time to sift through and then read so if someone finds an article/fact about drivability and service concerns then they can post it. Driving 50-60 miles one way to work on a daily bases can lead to a lot of miles in a year but you never are forced out of your comfort zone of auto service options. Most of the time when you have vehicle trouble you can limp into a service center that is known to you or friends. Even when you are down hard you can get a ride home to pick up the “other” car or borrow one from a family member.
That is not the case when you are 300 or 3,000 miles from home. That is why preventive maintenance (PM) and correct usage of your vehicle is so critical. While those of us that are gear heads that were rebuilding engines when we were 16 years old may think we know a lot about cars and trucks, it just is not the case today. While we may be better able than some to separate true statements from BS when talking with the mechanic we are just as helpless as the next when our transmission is in a million pieces on the work bench. We can’t just drive off or totally tick off the mechanic.
The cost is a major concern in these cases and it is not the repair bill. It is the cost of lost opportunity to make money. Some rent vehicles for this reason so they can just catch a ride to the closest rental outlet and rent another vehicle and let the company of the dead vehicle know where it is at so they can spend the time and expense to retrieve it. I find the only company savings to paying myself mileage vs. renting is an amount equal to the fuel cost plus the convenience of having more things that you “may” need then you would load and unload from a rental vehicle. This week I was asking myself why I was in the rental business which is the case if you think about when you hit the road in a vehicle you own.
Since this is getting long I will make another post about what I have learned about the drivability of today’s automatic transmissions and on the road service concerns this past week.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/19/2006 5:48:43 PM
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Gale
Posts: 736
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Murray, KY
Status: offline
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(Summary of this post if you are in a hurry: Drive in DRIVE (D) with a load or in hills long enough and you will get to buy a new transmission sooner than later.)
When it comes to driving a vehicle with an automatic transmission we often take the position that it will do our work and thinking for us. It is a good thing adjusters never take the position that their estimating software will do the work and thinking for them.
While the following is from my Chevy Blazer owners manual I am sure the instructions are similar for must vehicles with four speed automatic transmissions today.
DRIVE (D): This position is for normal driving. DRIVE (D) should not be used when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills or for off-road driving. Select THIRD (3) when operating the vehicle under any of these conditions.
THIRD (3): This position is also used for normal driving, because it offers more power and lower fuel economy than DRIVE (D). You should use THIRD (3) when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load, driving on steep hills or winding roads or for off-road driving.
Unlike several years ago, today DRIVE (D) is now actually Overdrive. Before Overdrive became common place in the automatic transmissions then DRIVE (D) is what is labeled THIRD (3) today on a four speed automatic transmission so if you drove in THIRD (3) all of the time it would be fine as your owner’s manual states. If you have a five or six speed automatic the first number to the right of (D) would be your top gear with (D) being Overdrive. Who can remember the three speed manual transmissions that Ford made in the early 50’s that had an Overdrive system of some type that was not just another gear in the shifting pattern like my Nissan 5-speed manual transmission in my pick up.
While I had only put the last 4K miles of the 107K miles on the Blazer I was aware that it shifted very often with the cruise set. Now I know (should have known and did intuitive know from the get go) if the transmission is automatically shifting often between Overdrive (4th gear in my case) and THIRD (3) that the transmission was going to fail prematurely. This is true for a car as well but since most cars are much lighter than even a small SUV like my 2002 Blazer it means they do not loose speed or required as much effort when driving in hilly country.
There is no doubt in my mind if we had left Louisville on I-71 for Cincinnati in THIRD (3) and never used Drive (D) we would have not toasted the transmission even though it was getting weak over the years from shifting so much. There was construction and trucks going very slow due to the long hills. Unlike with the 2.2 four cylinder the 4.3 V-6 has a lot of power so when we realized what was happening the 3-4 clutch pack was already very hot from slipping and we had to drive another 10+ miles with some steep hills to find the first exit.
Next I may share the difference between a rebuilt and remanufactured transmission.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/19/2006 9:58:52 PM
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wtxj
Posts: 15
Joined: 3/29/2006
Home base: DFW, Tx
Status: offline
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Heat--bain to all auto transmissions.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/20/2006 1:17:52 AM
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StormSupport
Posts: 86
Joined: 5/23/2006
Home base: Coastal VA
Status: offline
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Gale, I'm glad you made it home safe and sound, and God Bless those Heroes who came to your rescue!
~M~
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/20/2006 6:42:15 AM
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jimhitt
Posts: 28
Joined: 9/3/2005
Home base: North Richland Hills, TX
Status: offline
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It is a terrible feeling to be somewhere miles from home and in an area where you don't know anyone and have your transportation go out. I was driving down I 95 last January and at about OpaLocka Blvd. the transmission in my Explorer just stopped pulling. Trying to get to the shoulder from the third lane over with no power was one of the scariest things I have ever managed to pull off. Luckily my wife had come home for a while early in the storm and then decided to drive her car back. As I waited on her and the tow truck I started to think about what I would have done if she didn't have a car or she wasn't working with me. I was lucky enough to find a good transmission shop, got it replaced in about 4 days and I used her car to make my appointments those days.
I think the best investment any adjuster can make is the $50 a year for AAA membership. Paying for that one tow was about 5 years dues, plus the fact they said they give priority to AAA calls. Would say any new adjuster should spend the money for that before they go.
Now my 1995 Explorer is ready for my second 156,000 miles. Had since it was new, changed oil every 3,000 miles and think it may make to at least 200,000.
Of course the nice thing is that if it dies and I have to leave it beside the road permanently, I got my money's worth. What are the thoughts about keeping a newer vehicle as opposed to driving one like mine?
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/20/2006 8:01:53 AM
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Tom_Toll
Posts: 551
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Austin, AR
Status: offline
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We still own and maintain our old ride, a 1999 Ram 360. It has 210,000 miles on it, so the dependability factor has decreased considerable. We bought an 05 Hemi and love it. At least there is warranty involved. We must maintain our work vehicles. Who can afford to have their work vehicles down for a week or more. The 99 is our back up if needed. We kept it, as it still looks very good and drives good, no oil burnng, xmission still is working well, but there is always that chance that it will blow up. We did, however, have an 86 Dodge Lancer Turbo that went for a little over a half million miles before it was sold.
_____________________________
Success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/20/2006 11:04:21 PM
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gordon1
Posts: 88
Joined: 9/16/2004
Status: offline
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AAA has a gold membership that provides up to 100 miles of towing versus the regular membership that only provides towing to the nearest station-The cost is a bit more but worth it because it gives you more options on service stations
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/21/2006 9:52:13 AM
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inverse121
Posts: 57
Joined: 8/29/2005
Status: offline
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Gale, am I reading correctly that you bought a 2002 blazer with 103K miles on it? And have since put 4K miles on it?
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/21/2006 10:21:26 AM
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REWARDADJUSTING
Posts: 91
Joined: 12/1/2004
Status: offline
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A Diesel vehicle weather a truck or passenger vehicle is the only way to go for the best reliability, 10,000 maintenance intervals, typical diesel motors properly maintained can run over 500,000 miles compared to a whipped out oil burning gas motor by 200k <>, much better fuel economy and much more power. When on catastrophe site and there is a run on the gas pumps by everyone - there is no line for diesel. I saved 4 hours in Mississippi last year one afternoon a few days before Rita hit, there were lines 1/2 mile down the road at the gas stations. I pulled right up to the diesel pumps, tanked and left while stressed people waited until the gas pumps ran dry. Many waited for hours only to hear there was no gas left for them... I am supprised there were no stress related fights or shootings. Also when you need to run a power inverter due to power outage, you can leave a diesel run for hours to days compared to a gas generator that burns up 1 gallon per hour under load - if you can find gas. I saw adjusters last season hauling 4 or more 5 gallon gas cans around with them due to the gas situation, what a pain in the a** that would be, and you have to guard your gas cans so they are not stolen...
If you are not hauling a trailer you have no need for a large gas guzzling truck. The VW Passat wagon or Jetta wagon TDI - turbo Diesel has as much room as an SUV, plenty of cargo space in the back with the seats folded down flat. The roof rack can hold a ladder or 2 strapped down. I get 45 - 50 miles per gallon in my Jetta Wagon TDI loaded down with ladder on the roof running the AC and pushing 80mph. The tank holds 15 gallons and I get between 600 - 700 miles per tank. Not even a shoe box hybrid gets that knid of mileage - and hybrids have no room for cargo...
The bad news, The US is no longer allowing the Germans to import the VW diesels due to emissions (even though they are the cleanest burning diesels compared to Benz and all the trucks), 2005 was the last year for the Jetta and Passat wagon TDI. You will have to look hard to find a used one. These cars are actually appreciating, I paid $24,000 for mine brand new and now the same car with 40,000 miles is pulling $26,000 on ebay....
Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=140014498874&ih=004&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Click here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=250011932812&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/21/2006 11:43:37 AM
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lombardi65
Posts: 25
Joined: 10/17/2005
Status: offline
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I Agree....AAA is the way to go for bang for your buck. AAA has saved my bacon.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/21/2006 1:45:47 PM
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Gale
Posts: 736
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Murray, KY
Status: offline
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Yes Chris on the 103K/4K miles.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/21/2006 11:53:25 PM
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TrevorWhitten
Posts: 21
Joined: 8/7/2005
Home base: Grand Bay, AL.
Status: offline
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Ralph I agree. Diesel is the way to go. I tend to believe that Diesel is a better alternative not only for the gas only but because the engine that can be used by different energy alternatives. From what I hear it can be converted to an energy like ethynol or peanut oil? .I don't want everyone to think I am a conspiracy theorist but if Iran keeps its word on raising gas to $200.00 a barrell in the threat against our national safety & allies then I suggest small SUV, Hybrid or Diesel, because whether you like it or not what goes on over there ( and something will happen) will really put a dent in our income if were caught off gaurd.
For what it's worth I just think we all need to be prepared for this type of scenerio.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/22/2006 11:44:46 PM
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Ass Kicker
Posts: 85
Joined: 9/4/2005
Home base: Norman, OK
Status: offline
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Tranny fluid should be replaced every 50 -60k if possible (not flushed -- this usually will not sump the pan completely--- a true fluid replacement will probably set you back an hour and a half of labor).
I like most diesel trucks and the 500,000 mile scenario, but while the engine may last long, the vehicle will shuck its rear end, tranny, turbos, glow plugs and most other electrical components before it hits the 500k mark, so 500k longevity is false economy, as most people are pretty sick of a vehicle by 200k or before. -- that statement is just about heavy trucks --- i dont have any personal experience with the VW's ---- although the new Jeep Liberty diesel is a cool choice. Small SUV that gets 24 mpg !
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/25/2006 9:03:33 PM
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Gale
Posts: 736
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: Murray, KY
Status: offline
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When I went by the shop yesterday my transmission had been pulled. To our surprise it was a no name rebuilt transmission per the paper label that still looked quite new. Since it had no GM markings it was done after warrantee expiration one would think. This made me very glad Mark came with a dolly and pulled me home. Having a local shop rebuild a rebuilt transmission would be risky at best. I went with a Jasper remanufactured transmission for my 2002 Blazer. http://www.jasperengines.com/index.html
The price seemed high at $1906 when the Chevy dealer offered one of $1600 but the labor was $900 vs. $400 from a transmission shop in a small community near my house. The Jasper transmission has a three year/75K miles coverage on parts and labor by any shop that installs Jasper engines and transmissions in the US so it was about equal to that of a GM shop job. I choose to invest in the hardware instead of the labor and saved about $200 and got a better transmission in my view.
The remanufactured Jasper seemed to me to be a better transmission than a new GM transmission because of the modifications made by Jasper. They do live test on the remanufactured transmissions complete with same torque converter that ships and then drain the fluid before crating. Here are 15 updates done to the OEM transmission.
4L60E Product Updates
SHIFT CONCERN UPDATES
1) New boost valve and sleeve are installed in the transmission pump to prevent slippage under heavy throttle and delayed reverse engagement.
2) To also help prevent slow reverse engagement the low/reverse check ball is removed since this part is prone to wear leading to reverse engagement issues.
3) Modified pump slide with spacer are used to apply more consistent pressure which in turn prevents gear slippage.
4) All individual valve body circuits are tested for accuracy and pressure. This testing ensures that proper pressure is achieved to prevent slipped clutches, 2-4 band failure and soft lock up which can be caused by improper pressures.
5) The TCC Control Valve, TCC Regulator valve and the Actuator Feed Limit are replaced and the bores are reamed because these high wear areas can lead to shifting problems as well as soft or no lock up conditions.
6) The forward and reverse abuse plugs in the valve body are replaced to prevent cross leaks that can lead to delayed reverse engagement, 3-2 shift tie up and 3-4 clutch failure.
7) New Pressure Switch Manifold is installed because this part cannot be properly cleaned. This part ensures no wrong gear starts, and delayed engagements.
8) New Pressure Control Solenoids are used to prevent high or low pressure issues which can lead to harsh or soft shifts.
QUALITY & DURABILITY UPDATES
1) The latest design sun shell is installed. This design is more durable than the original design which could sometimes break and lead to no reverse or loss of 2nd or 4th gear.
2) The return springs in the 3-4 clutch are removed and the exhaust port in the separator plate is enlarged which helps prevent 3-4 clutch failure.
3) The torque converter is remanufactured using a state-of-the-art converter aligner/welder which holds converter run out to even tighter tolerances than OE. This prevents pump bushing wear and front seal leaks caused by converter vibration.
4) High energy 2-4 bands are used which absorbs more heat and has greater durability than a standard band.
5) High energy 3-4 clutch pack and increased lined clutch and steel plates (from 6 to 7) are used for increased torque capacity which prevents premature clutch failure.
6) Aluminum 1-2 accumulator pistons are used instead of the OE plastic pistons which were prone to breaking. This stronger piston prevents piston breaking which can cause low fluid pressure and burnt clutches.
7) All new pump and case bushings are used which helps prevent loss of fluid pressure and in turn clutch failure.
The following are definitions by Jasper of the meaning of Rebuild and Remanufacture:
REBUILD - To recondition by cleaning, inspecting and replacing severely worn or broken parts. Serviceable parts are reused within the manufacturer's acceptable wear limits.
REMANUFACTURE - To make as close to new as possible. Wearable parts are automatically replaced. All core material is closely inspected and checked against original equipment specifications for correct dimensional tolerances. Replacement parts are new and made in the same production process as original equipment. Testing is performed to manufacturer specifications and original production standards.
After I get several miles I will report my impressions and if the transmission is still pulling. : ) I have driven it 10 miles so far and it definitely is better feeling than the old one before the total failure last week.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/26/2006 4:26:54 AM
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racko
Posts: 228
Joined: 2/17/2006
Status: offline
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Seems like everybody cares about about your transmission as much as they did about my "pitch guage" question.
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RE: Adjuster Vehicle Drivability and Service - 8/26/2006 8:12:51 AM
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jlombardo
Posts: 335
Joined: 4/19/2004
Home base: clearwater, fl
Status: offline
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racko,
Be nice.......this just reinforces the reason why I drive a Ford Truck.........
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