Saturday, July 19, 2008
Virtual Claims Adjuster - 2
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Catastrophe Central
Subject: Moisture Probe
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Eric KraftUser is Offline

Member
Posts:15


05/09/2008 12:04 AM  

For years, I have used a pin-moisture probe that is about 18 inches long and beeps when things are "wet".  Is sensitive enough to pick up moisture in skin.  However, it is about on its last leg.   I would like to know what types other adjusters use; pin or pin-less and what is recommended.....

Marc DuboisUser is Offline
Adjuster
Anywhere USA/Canada
Member
Posts:117


05/09/2008 11:44 AM  
Try the best out there the Tramex Survey Encounter great for moisture mapping on large loss and extremely precise.

Marc Dubois
Executive General Adjuster
M.G.D. Claim Services Inc.
"Your Commercial Claims Solution"
R .D. HoodUser is Offline
Founding Member
Adjuster
New Hope, Pennsylvania
Member
Posts:197


05/09/2008 3:13 PM  
MY choice is the survey master Protomiter with the 4'extension wand.You can walk the floor and check the walls,floors ceiling etc.

It also comes with an EIFS probe for up to 8" and you can remove the cover and use it as a pin probe.

Expensive, (About 1K, when i got it) but worth every cent.

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new... Albert Einstein"
Ray HallUser is Offline
Adjuster
Houston, TX
Member
Posts:700


05/09/2008 6:48 PM  

I have a lot of respect for all three of the above posters/adjusters. I have never had a carrier ask me to purchase one to do my job . I am not sure a moisture meter is required on ever moisture claim. Ever storm claim is subject to water from above or below and most of the regular claims are water related. I invite all readers to give their opinion. Are the training schools (Vale Tech) teaching this is required today ? Are staff adjusters expected to purchase the rather expensive meter and put it on their expense account?

Drywall and structual lumber is very forgiven when it comes to clean water. At what point in each meter reading is the remove zone? Since three have been named, are they all calibrated the same way? How do you factor in the time of occurance and the time of the sample reading. IS ANY National Assoc. of General Contractors papers written on this tool. I want to hear more, please give us all good data to reach a good conclusion.

Marc DuboisUser is Offline
Adjuster
Anywhere USA/Canada
Member
Posts:117


05/09/2008 7:35 PM  

Survey Master sells for $585.00 about the same price as the Tramex. In reply to Ray although never been asked by a carrier to provide one they are beneficial. We were asked to moisture map condo complexes and as such the better the instrument the better the result. At 0.25 a sq ft you can understand that moisture mapping a 20 storey building is quite a worthwhile return on the investment. The Tramex also is beneficial on roof membranes.


Marc Dubois
Executive General Adjuster
M.G.D. Claim Services Inc.
"Your Commercial Claims Solution"
Bob HarveyUser is Offline
Gold Member
California, Central Coast
Member
Posts:318


05/10/2008 12:07 AM  
Posted By Eric Kraft on 05/09/2008 12:04 AM

I would like to know what types other adjusters use; pin or pin-less and what is recommended.....

For 18 years I used a pin type, got it after about the 3rd property loss because I did not want the Water Suckers to have better equipment, or tell me what was or wasn't still wet.  After that, I felt "blind" if I didn't bring my moisture probe with me.   Ray is right about Cat losses, usually it's too late by the time you get there to have the probe be of much use.  But on daily claims I consider them vital.

We had a thread on this subject recently, right after 2 claims where I realized I needed a better meter.

Here is my old "pin" type moisture probe.  I knew it was wet here, this is where the refrigerator ice maker line failed.

Around the corner, wasn't sure if the water went that far, my probe confirmed water trapped behind the base.  Think about it, my photo with probe says that I determined it was wet.  You don't see stains, the bullnose isn't screwed up like it was closer to the source, so this is the only way to say it in a photo that it is damaged.

But I had no idea water was trapped under the tile (on a wood sub-floor deck) because I didn't have a non-penetrating moisture meter.

Other side of the wall from the fridge, my probe found no moisture at the base, my prelim report said no damage to this room.

This is the same room, after an emergency service contractor that I respect determined moisture was under the surface, using a Tramex Encounter Plus non-penetrating moisture meter.  It's $355 at Amazon.com and is the lower priced one with analog needle, but is an upgrade of a dependable model.

Closer in, look at the water ring on the wood sheathing. 

Closer in.  I had no freak'in idea the water had run out this far, under the wood floor.  Despite my "pin type" meter I was truly blind, and this could have been a liability for ME PERSONALLY in terms of mold remediation that would not have been covered by the carrier (low limit).  The Emg Services contractor actually saved me from embarrassment and potential financial loss, E&O type issues because it was aggressively dried out before turning into a petri dish.  Which isn't covered anymore...

The wood sub-floor had water trapped under the hardwood finished floor AND THE TILE FLOOR in the kitchen, all the way out to here.  It has a water ring, and this was not an exaggerated claim by the contractor.  That water ran under the tile all the way down the hall at the end of the photo, and tile had to be pulled from a hall bathroom.  The non-penetrating meter found where it was, and they just pulled flooring as no other way to dry it.  This thing was leaking for 4 days at close of escrow when the fridge was pulled by seller (valve not fully closed) and the new buyer was litigious.  Believe me, this would have been ugly if someone didn't have a non-penetrating meter.  My "pin-type" would not tell me what was happening under the tile and hardwood floor.  It let me down.

People that own and use non-penetrating meters tend to rely on them, and don't even reach for the pin-type anymore.  And it doesn't leave the "snake bite" holes in the wall (if you do that do dry areas that won't need paint it is embarrassing)

 

Bob HarveyUser is Offline
Gold Member
California, Central Coast
Member
Posts:318


05/10/2008 12:47 AM  
Posted By Ray Hall on 05/09/2008 6:48 PM

I have never had a carrier ask me to purchase one to do my job . I am not sure a moisture meter is required on every moisture claim...

 Gotcha, and I have never been asked to purchase one.  The longer I do this, the more I realize that the people I report to often don't know anything about estimating or scoping, and rely on us to make recommendations.

Here's the 2nd recent loss where I should have had a non-penetrating meter, and was glad the contractor had one.

To the right of the failed dishwasher, one of my pint type meters confirms the floor is still wet. Note the Tramex meter on the shelf.

This Tramex meter is slammed all the way over to the right.  Then I looked more closely at the "melamine" coated particle board, and sure enough it was starting to bubble.  I jammed my "pin-type" meter in there and confirmed with the beeps what this meter found instantly by just setting it on the shelf.  Water was under the cabinets, and maybe you could inject air to dry them - but these boxes were toast.  You can imagine what the uncoated particle board on the other side of this would look like after 3 more weeks.  The place would start to smell like an old hotel, and this was the home of an affluent doctor.

8 feet to the left of the dishwasher, I could see the water damage, and that damage may look the same 2 years from now.  This meter is telling us that there is still water present, that is the issue.

The needle is pegged over to the right

The real value of these non-penetrating meters is to determine THE EXTENT of how far the water traveled, when it is beyond the obvious damage.

I would have said to pull the floor to here, but the water had traveled beyond where I could see it.  As it turned out, the new flooring didn't match as the old flooring had aged and darkened, so we had to do the whole room anyway.  But the scope of flooring to pull for emergency services was the honest truth, and if you don't have good meters you are to some extent going in blind.  I look back at the years I could have used one of these, checking along toe-kicks of cabinets to "see" where it is wet behind. 

My Disto laser meter was one of those tools I wish I had 10 years earlier, and this one is gonna be like that too.  It's $355 at Amazon.com and is the lower priced one with analog needle, but is an upgrade of a dependable model.

Marc was using one for large condo loss, and those (more expensive) digital ones will plug the results into a spreadsheet.  That creates a permanent record, and serves as "memory" of the areas you are checking.  Most of us don't need that feature, and when I was asking people I know that use these, they like the econo- analog needle because it is so simple and visual.  I know 4 contractors in my area that use this model, seems to be the sweet spot for lower priced non-destructive meters.  I'm glad this tread came up, I am going to order one of these right now.  I meant to do it earlier.  People that don't have any meter at all, if they are balking at $355 should get a "pin-type" meter, you can find them pretty cheap.  Personally, I will spend money on tools that I need for work faster than Sh*t out of a goose.

David DickersonUser is Offline

Northern California
Member
Posts:23


05/10/2008 10:44 PM  
I have always used a moisture meter with a needle and probing pins. In the beginning the general contractor I was working for did some minor drying and I was certified in water damage by IICRC . Before as some of you call them the water sucker companies became common place and mold became a problem. I used it to determine where the water went and when it was dry. I like the meter type to tell me how wet it is and not just beep.. I was just given one like Bob H has that looks like a shot gun that only beeps.. Have not used it yet, but not real fond of those type. I also have a pinless type with a meter. I also use them to infom the insured's where the water is, alot think they can put there hand on the wall or floor and think it is wet. I test it and let them know whether it is or not it is wet ,of course that is if the water guys have not been there yet and demo'd the place up.

Estimating is living on the edge between greed and fear
Bob HarveyUser is Offline
Gold Member
California, Central Coast
Member
Posts:318


05/10/2008 11:37 PM  

Posted By David Dickerson on 05/10/2008 10:44 PM
... I like the meter type to tell me how wet it is and not just beep...

 

Hi Dave, I know you do restoration work, and most of us here are adjusters.  I just have to say, on the thread of these moisture meters, that I firmly believe they help me and the restoration contractor get on the same sheet of music.

The claim above was rather expensive, and I was able to make some significant adjustments to what the contractor first proposed (he included the dishwasher area as cabinet replacement, painting the total SF of the Kitchen despite large missing wall that opened to the living room, and cabinet-back-splash areas that aren't painted, pair of large sliders, etc. 

It is what it is, and accurate measurements, knowing what is wet and what isn't help establish a meeting of the minds.

Here's the water damaged hardwood floor removed, a bit farther that was visibly damaged because the water ran underneath along the slab.

Dishwasher (source of water) pulled, new cabinets, flooring pulled, granite counter cracked when removed, this was an expensive loss.

David DickersonUser is Offline

Northern California
Member
Posts:23


05/11/2008 2:48 AM  
Bob
I could not agree more with getting on the same page..

A good estimator knows you have to pull out all openings and areas you are not painting... There are estimators and guestamators in the reconstruction field ..... The estimator makes music the other only play sour notes....

Too bad it was not up here. We repair those in place all the time. It usually is after mold abatement and one of the better water guys supports the counters in place and leaves the face frames and removes the boxes and our in house cabinet guy rebuilds the boxes. Good as new and cabinets look like they were never damaged .

Repair before replace....

Estimating is living on the edge between greed and fear
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